Boning Placement

For years, I’ve struggled with the proper placement of bodice bones. Did you know that the bodice bones, when properly placed, don’t reach all the way to the hemline?

Placing the bones 1/2 inch below the hem-line will allow for turn of the cloth. There is nothing worse than metal bones spiking up through the hemline to create an uneven edge. I didn’t realize 1/2” was the magic number, but it is what Patou recommended.

There’s often confusion over bone placement, especially around the bust. Most of the vintage patterns I have sewn from placed the bones up and over the bust and, if there’s a bone in the center front, it usually reaches only to the middle of the bust-line.

This underbodice contains 7 spiral steel bones. The seams have all been hand-overcast and the boning channels have been herringboned into place so there’s no sewing lines showing on the right side of the fashion fabric.