Patou by Bohan Ensemble: Creation and Historical Discoveries, #V1350

Presenting the finished Patou by Bohan ensemble from 1956, created from the Vogue pattern #1350.


Asian woman in Patou by Marc Bohan dress Vogue #1350 from 1956. #V1350 Vintage Vogue 1350
Finished Patou by Marc Bohan #V1350 circa 1956

A contrasting lace bodice was made so the dress would carry interest when it was worn without the bolero.


Asian woman in Patou by Marc Bohan dress Vogue #1350 from 1956. #V1350 Vintage Vogue 1350
Finished Dress with a Contrasting Lace Bodice

As you can see below, the bolero was lengthened by several inches to cover the lace bodice. Still, when one lifts an arm, the lace bodice peeps out!


Asian woman in Patou by Marc Bohan dress Vogue #1350 from 1956. #V1350 Vintage Vogue 1350
Lengthened Bolero to Cover Contrasting Lace Bodice

Here’s a closer look at the complex draping at the back, where the belt and cummerbund intersect. The belt is permanently attached to the dress, and wraps around the body. It hooks in place under the draping near the bodice. The cummerbund is not attached to the dress and is removable.


Asian woman in Patou by Marc Bohan dress Vogue #1350 from 1956. #V1350 Vintage Vogue 1350
Handstitched Back Draping Detail with Wrapped Cummerbund and Belt

Below is another view of the draping, cummerbund, and belt as it wraps around the body.


Asian woman in Patou by Marc Bohan dress Vogue #1350 from 1956. #V1350 Vintage Vogue 1350
Side View of Wrapped Cummerbund and Belt

I managed to find more illustrations and photographs of this dress from the March 1957 Vogue Counter Book.



After making several ensembles by Marc Bohan, I’ve concluded that Bohan brought Asian influences to Paris Haute Couture, long before the elite group of Japanese designers came to Paris. Take a look at the Origami coat from pattern #V1389.


Patou coat from 1957
Coat from Patou #V1389

Or, have a look at the origami suit and dress ensemble below from Patou, designed by Bohan in 1957:



Patou Sewing Pattern Vogue Paris Original #1396 by Marc Bohan, circa 1957
Patou, Vogue Paris Original #1396 by Marc Bohan, circa 1957

I wish I could ask Marc where he found his inspiration for this dress. I can only speculate, and assume that he had his pulse on world news. The Korean hostilities, between the North and the South, ended in 1953; therefore, Korea was on the consciousness of the West, and perhaps also in the consciousness of a French designer.



I also wonder what direction Bohan would have taken the house, and what he may have created, if he remained at Patou. His designs pushed the boundaries at that time, yet, they had that signature "deceptive simplicity" about them; he designed with a classic and clean aesthetic that only Bohan could pull off. After making an origami coat, and now this dress, I am certain he was influenced by Eastern elements with some of his designs.


Women in Traditional Korean Hanbok
Traditional Korean Hanbok

Wherever and however Marc was influenced at the time, he is, and continues to be, a force in fashion.


It was a privilege and a joy to recreate this magnificent Bohan design.


Asian woman in Patou by Marc Bohan dress Vogue #1350 from 1956. #V1350 Vintage Vogue 1350
Completed Patou by Marc Bohan Ensemble



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