As we have already discovered while building this dress, there are more ways to create volume and shape than just using a crinoline or a petticoat beneath a dress. This dress doesn’t use either a petticoat or a traditional crinoline, but (as mentioned in the previous blog post), we are creating massive volume by using horse-hair braid.
Now, we find another surprise: we are box-pleating crinoline, and attaching it to the underskirt!
To create extra "poof" and structure, the house of Patou asks us to create a “double-pleat,” which is, essentially, two pleats folded over and upon one another. They are sewn at the same meeting point. This will provide guaranteed "poof".
The double box-pleated "stiffening" is then sewn to the underskirt. and the final result looks like this:
Another famous couturier, Charles James, was known for his unique and inventive ways of creating shape, but Patou’s method is also incredibly fascinating, don’t you think? I can't wait to see what the skirt looks like over this prominent understructure!